Tuesday, 31 December 2013

A bit of geographical and cultural perspective

Isn't life strange? Perhaps not quite 'a turn of the page' as the Moody Blues sang, but certainly capable of throwing you a curveball.

In the space of a week, earlier this month, I went from being a northerner in the south, to being a southerner in the north. No longer a token Geordie in the English south Midlands, but a recently-fledged ferry louper on Orkney. 

'Ferry louper', literally 'ferry jumper', is a sometimes derogatory but usually light-hearted name used by Orcadians to described non-Orcadians, presumably irrespective of whether they disembarked jauntily from one of the ferries or arrived by air at Kirkwall Airport.

Born and raised in south west County Durham, in the north east of England, I grew up surrounded by 2000 years of history, which I pretty much ignored until much later in my life. The daily walk to school took in a length of Roman road, 100m of Dere Street, still complete with (if I'd bothered to look over the hedgerow into the adjoining field) evidence of the agger. This road was part of the route from York (Eboracum) to the Antonine Wall and took in the nearby fort of Vinovia at Binchester by the River Wear.

As I recall, the only pre-Roman site I visited back then was the Stanwick Iron Age Fortifications, or Stanwick Camp, whose name is actually thought to come from the Old Norse 'steinvegges' or stone walls. And there we have it, the dragon-headed elephant in the room, the Vikings, who left more of a mark on the north east of England in its language and dialects than the all-conquering Romans could've dreamed of. I'll draw a discreet veil over the Norman period and the ethnic-cleansing-esque Harrying of the North, and leave County Durham basking in the glow of its later moniker, the Land of the Prince Bishops.

By the early 1990s and much further south, Our Lass and I were bringing up our family in Milton Keynes, again not too far from a Roman road, this time Watling Street, which was to become a significant part of my daily commute during this past fourteen years. This journey also took in Towcester, the Romans' Lactadorum, a reference to the milky waters of the River Tove, I believe. But in the post Roman period, the area was Saxon territory, and quite genteel in comparison to the rugged topography of the land of my birth.

Fast forward to 2013 (and almost 2014!) and here we are in Orkney, a place which celebrates its Norse heritage above its more recent Scottish history. Certainly, plenty of the Orcadian dialect words have parallels easily recognisable to a Durham lad, thanks to those much-travelled Vikings. Yet here is also a rich Neolithic story, which although it does not really feature in the language, is amply represented in stone. And not a Roman in sight.

Monday, 30 December 2013

Recycling

One of the changes that I've had to come to terms with in moving to a new area, is the local council's recycling policy and particularly the receptacles for the doorstep collections.

Back in MK, we had weekly collections and four containers to play with:
  • household rubbish, in a black sack;
  • paper/tin/plastic, in a pink sack;
  • glass, in a blue box;
  • garden/kitchen waste, in a green wheelie bin.
So in a normal week, we would easily recycle more than we were creating for landfill.

The green wheelie bin was especially useful, as it could take just about any garden waste we created, certainly more than we could've composted. Plus, all our kitchen waste went in there as well. All of this green waste went off to be composted down into soil conditioner at a regional facility, and I believe our local authority used this product in its landscaping department.

Orkney, with a much smaller catchment area, obviously can't compete directly with that, but I now have five containers to play with, none of which is for green waste. And the collections are fortnightly (household waste alternating with recyclables on a weekly basis):
  • household rubbish, in a black wheelie bin;
  • 2 green wheelie bins, each with a smaller black container that slots inside, for glass, paper, plastic and tins, in whatever order I choose!
The paper, plastic and tin restrictions are much tighter. No thick cardboard, no food trays (eg margarine tubs), no tetrapaks (eg fruit juice cartons) and no tin foil (all those mince pies!).

In addition, we're back to composting for ourselves, though I have heard that there is a scheme whereby green garden waste can be taken to a recycling site and the resulting compost is available for sale.

But perhaps the biggest difference about recycling in Orkney is that the wheelie bins have to be tied down so that they don't blow over or away!

During our first week in residence at the cottage, we were sat in the kitchen one evening when there was a dull thud from one end of the building. This was followed by a long, drawn-out, scraping sound, as something large dragged itself across the roof, before silence descended once more. We sat and looked at each other in surprise, followed by consternation when we realised that neither of us fancied going out into the howling gale and the dark to see what it was.

Daybreak revealed that one of the plastic inserts from the green wheelie bins had escaped in the strong winds and was now nestled in the lee of the cottage. This prompted a trip to a motor factor and the purchase of a number of bungee straps. These have now been beta-tested by a further three storms, so far without mishap.

Once the festive holiday period is over, we intend to visit Orkney ZeroWaste, a charity set up to promote those good habits 'Reduce, Reuse, Recycle'. Is it wrong to feel so excited by the prospect?

Friday, 27 December 2013

A peachy beach and a walk with a cat

Today, the weather has taken another turn for the worse. Gale force winds and driving rain battered the cottage during the night, but at least we have fared better than those poor unfortunate souls further south, who have had to contend with flooding, travel disruption and lack of electricity. The only evidence of an ingress of moisture here being a damp curtain resulting from the rain wicking through the hole where the phone cable enters the building. Possibly not what BT had in mind when they quoted the data rate for broadband?

Yesterday, however, was a peach of a day. Sunny, dry and with the wind reduced to below gale force. To make the most of this, Our Lass and I ventured out mid-morning, to explore a part of South Ronaldsay that we had not visited previously.

By the time we parked at the Sand of Wright, overlooking Widewall Bay, the tide was just on the turn and beginning to flow once more. We walked across the narrow isthmus towards the Dam of Hoxa, marvelling at the lichen growing on a sheltered stone wall beside the path.

Photo courtesy of Our Lass
Lichen in the sun, a species of Ramalina
Which reminds me, I must have a shave
Returning to the southern shore, we wandered along the beach to the rockpools of Roeberry Taing, intrigued by the beachcombers who appeared to be gathering driftwood for fuel. Well, there's precious few trees on Orkney, so I guess it makes sense to use whatever combustible material is available.


Sand of Wright and She-who-is-always-right
We then drove up onto Hoxa Head, parking by the tea room (Disaster! Not open until mid February) and circumnavigated the peninsula, exploring some of the many structures dating from the two World Wars. These consisted of gun emplacements and their associated infrastructure, which formed part of the defences at the southern entrance to Scapa Flow, the safe anchorage for the British fleet during the first half of the 20th Century.


Observation towers of the Balfour Battery. Photo courtesy of Our Lass
At Scarf Skerry, as we passed the navigation beacon of Hoxa Head Lighthouse, the MV Pentalina sailed out of St Margaret's Hope, on her way to Gills Bay on the Scottish mainland. This catamaran vehicle ferry only takes an hour to cross the fast flowing waters of the Pentland Firth and, as we're not great sailors, is our preferred option for such voyages.


MV Pentalina. Photo courtesy of Our Lass
Hoxa Head Lighthouse
Once the Pentalina was clear of the Flow, a small tanker made its way into the anchorage through the Sound of Hoxa, presumably prior to visiting the facilities of the oil terminal on the island of Flotta. There is currently much controversy as regards the environmental impact of ships de-ballasting in these waters. A balance is still being sought between creating revenue for the local economy and protecting the native marine habitat.

Wednesday, 25 December 2013

More sand than Santa

Merry Christmas, folks!

Following an overnight storm, Christmas morning was greeted with a wind that had lessened to a mere and more normal 35mph (31 knots). After a leisurely breakfast, Our Lass and I decided to hit the beach, though in all fairness, it was more a case of the beach hitting us!

We drove the short distance to Glimps Holm, a small, uninhabited island connected to its neighbours by Churchill Barriers 2 and 3. Parking by Barrier 2, we watched the waves driven in by the North Sea, breaking on the block ships that were some of the Scapa Flow defences before the building of the barriers.

Mast of block ship just visible left of centre
At this point, we set off along the eastern shore of the island, into the wind which now contained a goodly helping of rain and hail. Our Lass thought it would be a good idea to indulge in a Christmas selfie.


Mr and Mrs Selfie
Undeterred, we pressed on and were rewarded with a brief dry spell, where we were able to enjoy the views across to Barrier 3.



In the absence of any precipitation, the strong wind whipped up sand particles instead, so that the beach ahead of us took on a fuzzy, blurred appearance. Where small stones were laid on the beach, strange mini-dune sand sculptures appeared downwind - not easy to capture on a phone and definitely not a place for sensitive optics.

When we felt that we had experienced sufficient face lashing for a Christmas morning, we headed back to the cottage, just in time to capture some more scenic weather.


Rainbow in Scapa Flow, sun on Glimps Holm

Tuesday, 24 December 2013

Christmas Eve lunacy

Yesterday, a dear cousin asked me what sort of camera I used for my blog photos.

It brought me up sharply, as with the exception of last week's shot of the Ivory Gull at Evie, since our holiday in Somerset way back in early September, I have only been using the camera on my phone.

Len and Very Wrong Len have been conspicuous by their absence, which I will put down to me being too wrapped up in the whole downsizing and lifestyle-changing malarkey to worry about searching out and composing photographs.

To be honest, even when I am in the mood, 'composing' isn't exactly the description of my modus operandi!

This morning, however, as I sat at breakfast, the view to the west caught my attention. It was just before sunrise, a waning gibbous moon hung in the sky like a festive bauble and a garland of pink cloud swathed the horizon (hey, there's few trees up here, where else would you put your Christmas decorations?).

So, for the first time in ages, it felt appropriate to use a proper camera. After an amount of frantic scrabbling about under the stairs, I located my optics bag and hastily attached Len, the better to capture the wider scene.



It then occurred to me that, despite the gale howling around the courtyard, it might be possible to use Very Wrong Len to take a photograph of the moon. I have tried this before, at night, and just not got the hang of it, so I hoped that with more background light, it would improve my chances of success.



As the storms that have affected parts of the southern UK head towards northern Scotland, I wish you a Merry and, above all, Safe Christmas!

Monday, 23 December 2013

Garden list

For the previous eight years, Our Lass and I have religiously completed a survey over the Winter months (November - March), detailing the birds that fed in our garden at Tense Towers. This is organised by the North Bucks branch of the RSPB, which covers the Milton Keynes area, and produces data that, year on year, illuminates statistical trends of the avian visitors to the gardens of its members. Citizen science at its most grass roots level - well, as we didn't have to leave the house, perhaps that should be 'carpet pile' level.

Here's a few examples of the I&T posts that have been generated from the project:


For 2013-14, for us, it was pointless beginning the survey, as Our Lass headed northwards almost as soon as the survey period commenced. I was too wrapped up in the house move to pay much attention to it and, besides, we had reduced feeding since the Spring to slowly wean our feathered friends off their reliance on free handouts.

Obviously, the move 600 miles north has brought one or two changes.

For these first two weeks, at the cottage we're renting on Burray, there have been very few actual garden visitors. All we have seen so far are a couple of Blackbirds, a small flock of Starlings, a Robin, a Wren and two House Sparrows. No other thrushes or finches, no tits, no woodpeckers, and definitely no pigeons.

I am wondering if it is possible to leave food out for these hardy souls, but I suspect that I would have to nail down each morsel, lest the fierce winds remove them to all points of the compass.

However, the birds seen from the garden... well, that is a very different story. The freshwater lochan and the closest bay of Scapa Flow hold plenty of wildfowl. The fields between the cottage and the shore also attract plenty of bird life.

After living in an inland city for 23 years, this has caused much excitement and a fair amount of loitering near the kitchen window, often from a little after daybreak...

Our Lass, on duty since breakfast...
The roll call includes Goldeneye, Long-tailed Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, Eider, Great Northern Diver, Little Grebe, Wigeon, Lapwing, Curlew, Redshank, Greylag Goose, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Hooded Crow, Raven, Common Gull, Black-headed Gull, Great Black-backed Gull and Hen Harrier.

At some point, I will try to deploy Very Wrong Len.

Sunday, 22 December 2013

Saturday, 21 December 2013

Reborn

The county of Orkney, in which Our Lass and I now find ourselves, contains much archaeology, a significant proportion of it being from Neolithic times.

One of the more famous sites is Maeshowe, a chambered tomb and part of Orkney's UNESCO World Heritage landscape.

At this time of year, on the shortest day, like various neolithic structures, Maeshowe exhibits an alignment with the setting sun. As well as marvelling at the 5000 year old ingenuity of our ancestors, we can also share their joy in our present, in that we, too, can welcome the lengthening days on the journey to Summer.

In the annual cycle of the year, within this wheel of life, death and rebirth, the Winter solstice is known by many names. In this part of the world, with its Norse heritage, it is Yule.

Wherever you are, whatever your solsticial festival, have a happy day.

Thursday, 19 December 2013

A tide in the affairs of me...

There I was, stood at the kitchen sink this morning, washing the breakfast things and absent-mindedly gazing at the loch and the bay, when a thought struck me.

"The tide's in."

Now we've been living in this cottage for over a week, so it's fair to assume that the tide has been in and out quite a few times during that period, in its cyclical Hokey Kokey way. But today was the first occasion when I actively registered the fact.

Picking up my bins, I scanned as much of the bay shore as was visible from my vantage point, to confirm that the view went directly from waves to grass. No rocks, no seaweed, no flotsam, no doubt that this was a very high tide.

Sorry, but I don't think I will become bored with this view...
Waders were visible in the field below the cottage, quite a large mixed flock of Curlew and Lapwing, plus the odd Redshank appearing now and again out over the bay. In a sheltered corner of the loch, out of the strong wind, a couple of Little Grebe were busy feeding. Suddenly, lots of gulls flew up from the the bit of shore hidden from view by the ayre. Scanning through this flock, one bird seemed much greyer than the others. In fact, it wasn't a gull, but it was probably the reason that all the gulls were in the air. It was a male Hen Harrier. As sea birds flew right, left and centre, it gracefully glided towards the cottage, impervious to the calls of the gulls and the fierce Orkney blast. I watched, mesmerised, as it drifted passed the window and out of sight.

Once I had emerged from the reverie, another thought struck me. Hmmm, I need to be in Kirkwall soon, to post the last of the Christmas parcels before it's too late. And if it's a very high tide, that might be interesting.

Fortunately, the Churchill Barriers between Burray, Glimps Holm, Lamb Holm and Mainland were open to traffic and not too wave-lashed. So I relaxed a bit when I reached Mainland, and was promptly deluged by spray as I drove into St Marys. Half the main road was under water, as was the pier, a salient reminder that wind direction also has a part to play in tidal forces.

Fortuitously, there wasn't a queue in the post office, so Operation Santa went very smoothly and quickly into Operation Tea-and-cake at the internet cafe. That's my kind of mission. I texted Our Lass to see if she wanted to meet up for lunch, but she was otherwise engaged in some Christmas festivities with her work colleagues. So I decided to lapse into tourist mode and drove over to Stenness to visit the Ring of Brodgar.


Part of me thinks that it looks better at midwinter than it does at midsummer, though it was bloomin' freezing trying to hold my phone still in the howling gale, whilst I took the shot. Though it's not as if I'm exactly having to suffer for my art.

Playing away from home

It's not what you think.

No, really, it's not.

At the moment, I'm sat in the computer room of Orkney Library and Archive in Kirkwall. That's the Orkney Library and Archive which is big on Twitter, Facebook and Blogger.

They've won awards and everything, y'know.

Presumably for stuff like this.

And they're possibly the coolest repository of books and humour in the known universe.

Anyways, here I am, waiting for my car to undergo its MOT, so why not saunter over to the library to wile away the time? And bang out a quick one in the computer room? Well why not, eh? From the feverish sounds of keyboards being thumped all around me, I may well have the lightest touch in here at the moment.

Whilst packing up all our goods and chattels in MK (well, I assume they were chattels, I wasn't even sure which way up they should go), it struck me that we have way too many books (yeah, right, like that's possible!), but you know what I mean.

So it's been something of a revelation, since journeying to Orkney, to re-discover the concept of a public library. Liken it to the conversion of St Tense on the road to Deerness. The library takes on the onerous burden of storing all the books and I am allowed (well, not just me, obviously) to borrow them from time to time. Amazing plan! How could I forget such a whizzo scheme?

Sigh.

So this particular post is my homage to Orkney Library and Archive, for all the happy memories it has created over the years, when I wasn't living on Orkney, but wished I was.

And I'm not even going to mention how awestruck I was to actually visit the place for the first time last week (this is the trouble with holidaying on peedie, remote islands - Kirkwall just didn't appear on the itinerary).

So now you have to promise me that you won't mention any of this to my laptop. Playing away from home? There's just some lines you don't cross.

Sunday, 15 December 2013

Settling in

Settling in... to some spectacular wildlife.

Yesterday morning, after a tip off on Radio Orkney's Facebook page, we travelled across to Mainland and up the coast to Evie. Sadly, a dead Sperm Whale had been washed up on the shore. But the carcase had attracted a very special visitor.

A dead Sperm Whale, washed up on the coast at Evie
This was an Ivory Gull. A species which, we were informed, has not been seen in Orkney since 1949. Unfortunately, though we managed to find it roosting in the littoral zone, we did not see it feeding on the whale.

Ivory Gull
Settling in... to the local area around the cottage.

This morning, Our Lass and I had a pleasant wander around the western part of Burray. The low Winter sun was shining, and the wind was blowing a gale, but at least it wasn't raining.

View across Hunda and Scapa Flow towards Orphir (R) and Hoy (L)

Burray village and harbour, with Churchill Barrier number 4 in the background

Settling in... to Christmas at the cottage.


Saturday, 14 December 2013

Journey to a land beyond the north wind

Hello from Orkney! 

The last few weeks have been a bit of a blur to be honest, but let's have a recap.

Our Lass headed northwards in early November to take up her new post on Mainland, the largest of the Orcadian archipelago. Yours Truly remained behind in Milton Keynes to look after the arrangements for the house sale and move.

After a few last minute hiccups and traumas, a little over a week and half ago, I said my final goodbye to Tense Towers, a fond farewell to a building that has provided some magical natural history moments over the eleven years we have lived there. Having locked the front door for the last time and driven to the end of the street, I found that I had to retrace my steps for one more photo.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you...

the first...

the original...

the classic incarnation of...

Tense Towers!

See? No turrets

Earlier in the day

With the weather set to deteriorate all across my planned route from MK to Orkney (about 600 miles as the crow flies), I set off with a little trepidation and plenty of last minute packing crammed into our car.

My first pit stop was an overnight in Manchester, courtesy of First Born and her beau. With some business to attend to in the city the next morning, I was able to sit out the worst of the storm force winds, before heading northwards once more, to spend the night with family near Dunfermline in Scotland.

The following morning, I set off early on the full day's drive to the ferry port at Gill's Bay, on the north coast of Caithness.

Dawn over Fife
En route through the Cairngorms
As the sun set, and darkness fell, I finally reached the port and nervously waited for the ferry. I shouldn't have worried, the hour's crossing of the Pentland Firth was as smooth as smooth could be. So my huge thanks to the Pentalina and her crew.

Arriving at St Margaret's Hope on South Ronaldsay, I experienced Orkney as I had never seen it before. In total darkness. All our holidays have been in late Spring and early Summer, when darkness is a very rare commodity. After crossing the Churchill Barriers, the causeways that link South Ron with Mainland, I eventually crested the rise that revealed a street lit vista of Kirkwall, city and Royal Burgh, capital of Orkney.

It was fantastic to be reunited with Our Lass, for these four weeks had been the longest we had been apart in more than 24 years.

And now a different life beckoned. A fresh start. A new day.

Kirkwall dawn
Whilst we are house hunting for a new home, Our Lass has found us temporary lodgings in a small stone cottage. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in location.

View from the cottage garden
By the shore of Scapa Flow, alongside a fresh water lochan and nestled above an ayre.

A new chapter of our lives begins here...

Monday, 9 December 2013

Update

Dear Reader and/or Faithful Follower,

This is just a quick update to let you know that I did indeed arrive on Orkney as planned, despite the atrocious weather encountered en route.

It's a long story and even longer in the telling, as they say.

As you can imagine, things are a bit hectic at the moment, as we endeavour to adjust our life style to sync seamlessly with the Orcadian modus operandi.

It's safe to say that Orkney is living up to expectations (must be all those episodes of Northern Exposure on dvd), as yesterday we ventured to a hardware shop to browse the shelves and, having selected a suitable purchase, I was served by a nun.

It should've been obvious from the Julie Andrews numbers belting out of the speakers that they were holding a promotional event for The Sound of Music and the staff were in costume.

It made I chuckle and no mistake.

There will likely be a significant gap until my next post, but in the meantime, please peruse this other update and comment as you see fit.

Laters!

Wednesday, 4 December 2013

Channelling 101 Dalmations and Scooby Doo.

And there was me thinking I could steal away quietly...

... nope.

I would've gotten away with it too, if it hadn't have been for those pesky... jolly nice folk at FoHESC. 

Monday, 2 December 2013

A weekend of packing and an odd last day at work

For the last weekend of habitation in Tense Towers and MK, it was all hands to the pumps boxes, as First and Second Born helped their dear old dad to shoehorn too much life into too small a space.

The girls were terrific, little whirlwinds of energy, scattering cardboard, bubble wrap, tissue paper and packing tape to all points of the compass, as the kitchen and lounge disappeared into their temporary cubes of accommodation.


All cartons were labelled with an initial letter for the room, followed by a number for the cumulative total of boxes for that room. So when we arrived at Box 9 for the kitchen...

Well, it had to be done.


Today (Monday) was my last day at work in England. 

I arrived at the office to find my desk emblazoned with Good Luck banners and balloons, plus a seriously chocolatey chocolate cake. Many Thanks to Gem and Sam! The pentangles were a nice touch, I thought. 


A morning spent tying up loose ends and handing over tasks morphed into a meeting for the whole firm in the boardroom. After 14 years with the same company, there's always going to be plenty of ammunition for the farewell slideshow, with the added bonus of knowing that I had provided most of it anyway, during various daft stunts and morale-boosting schemes..

I wasn't disappointed!

Much research had uncovered several photos taken during a Red Nose Day with my previous employer, pre-2000. We take our ritual humiliation seriously, y'know! So my colleagues were treated to the sight of me wearing Our Lass's midwifery dress, red stockings and suspenders, plus army boots. Classy.

 Actually, quite classy compared to the next slide, which showed me in 2006, stripped down to only a climbing harness in a fetching yellow and blue, plus the obligatory boots, with a carefully-positioned mountaineering helmet to protect what little was left of my dignity.

One day, perhaps, these will see the light of day on Imperfect and Tense. For a large contribution to a charity of my choice!

My next blogpost is likely to be from Orkney, should I survive the snowstorm forecast for the day of my arrival.

Er... I'm going out now, I may be some time.

Tuesday, 26 November 2013

Early one morning...

This photo was taken first thing this morning, whilst clearing the ice from my windscreen.

At this time of day, I'm not very perky, but at least I was a bit pinky.

With apologies to older readers*.


* For the benefit of younger readers, see here.

Monday, 25 November 2013

Cowabunga!

Early indications are that we're definitely moving into a more rural, agri-centric, farming environment.

I received a text from Our Lass this morning, after she had been browsing in a Kirkwall hardware store.

It read, "It's most disconcerting when shopping for tea towels and you come across udder cloths!"

So it looks like milking parlour hygiene is going to be fairly near the top of our agenda.

Sunday, 24 November 2013

A setting sun and daughter

It seems as if I haven't immersed myself in Nature for ages.
This probably has much to do with the fact that I haven't.

A month ago, the one golden opportunity at work went begging as I was off sick that day. Gah!

Young Grass Snake, courtesy of my thoughtful line manager
So yesterday, when Second Born asked if I wanted a break from packing to go for a walk, it was a no-brainer really. OK, it was late afternoon on an overcast day and the the light was fading, but the air was fresh and, heck, I won't be seeing too many more Autumns in MK.

From SB's abode, we pottered over the Grand Union Canal and headed for the River Ouzel. Following this brought us to Willen Lake South and the thinning throng of a busy day at the watersports facility. There were plenty of wildfowl out in the lake, but I was most surprised to spot several dozen Lapwing roosting on the pontoons by the outdoor pursuits centre.

By the time we arrived at Willen Lake North, a small flock of Starlings were just completing a mini murmuration, so we watched them for a minute of two before they plummeted into the reed bed for the night.

A light drizzle made its presence felt as we passed alongside the Peace Pagoda.


However, undaunted, we pressed on westwards, climbing back up the hill to the canal. Turning south once more, we were treated to as much of a sunset as was possible on a wet, grey Saturday.


The leaves on the trees were still putting on a display, even towards dusk.


But eventually we ran out of daylight as we returned to Chez SB...


and a much appreciated mug of tea!

Sunday, 17 November 2013

BDS 30th Anniversary meeting

The Oxford Natural History Museum is famous for many things:
  • it has the most complete remains of a single Dodo anywhere in the world;
  • it displays a 1651 painting of a Dodo by Jan Savery, which is likely to have influenced the character of the Dodo in Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures in Wonderland;
  • in 1894, it was the site of the first public demonstration of wireless telegraphy;
  • in 1860, it was the site of the 'Great Debate' on evolution between Samuel Wilberforce, Bishop of Oxford, and Thomas Huxley, a supporter of Darwin.
Whilst the latter event occurred at the 30th annual meeting of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, I am sure it was purely coincidental that the 2013 British Dragonfly Society Members' Day, celebrating the society's 30th anniversary, was held at the same venue.



In what is usually the curtain-closing finale of the dragonfly year (though mild Autumns can scupper the assertion), this heady blend of the science and the art of these spectacular insects is much anticipated by Yours Truly, as we begin the long wait until the next flight season.

I guess it was a little more poignant for me this year, as I'm unlikely to be attending the next few and I doubt if Kirkwall is on the list of possible contenders to host it.

As mentioned above, the day was a mixture of talks covering academic research, recording /monitoring initiatives and personal odo travelogues. This made for a varied programme which, for me, led to education (a new word!), fascination (amazing slo-mo footage) and appreciation (lots of stunning photographs).

And cake...


The day began with a talk by Mark Tyrrell, the Northamptonshire dragonfly recorder, who explained how two species are colonising the county: Beautiful Demoiselle from the south west; Scarce Chaser from the north east. Northamptonshire's extensive river system is also linked to the Grand Union Canal network, which is enabling the expansion in ranges of these dragonflies.

As befits a significant anniversary year, there was then a personal review of the Society's history from a former President, Andy McGeeney. Andy is an ecotherapist, which must be one of those jobs that the careers officer inexplicably forgot to mention when I was a lad.

After a short tea break, we were given the lowdown on the next recording and monitoring project, which will take over from the Atlas work that has occupied much of the last five or so years. DragonflyWatch is the scheme that hopes to pull together the data from all levels of recorder expertise and use it to produce information and advice on population trends.

The final talk of the morning was given by Prof. Georg Rüppell & Dr Dagmar Hilfert-Rüppell and looked at sexual conflict in dragonflies, asking the question "Is it a pacemaker of evolution?" This talk was accompanied by some stunning slow motion footage of male aeshnids attacking each other as they fought over territory and females. I certainly learnt a few things, as I hadn't realised that in low density populations, clear-winged species are the ones most likely to  engage in battle, whereas colour-winged species will use their wings to signal their intentions without actual physical contact with an adversary.

After lunch, the afternoon session kicked off with an update from David Clarke on the translocation project for White-faced Darter in Cumbria. Following three years of translocations from an established site in the north of the county to a new site in the south, there were encouraging results. The new site was obviously viable and no detrimental effect was measured at the existing site.

Then, Dr Vicky Nall of the Cheshire Wildlife Trust explained about a similar project in Cheshire, where the White-faced Darter was being reintroduced to an area of Delamere Forest, from which it had been lost. Much rewilding and habitat maintenance had been carried out by the site owners to make the area viable for the species once again.

Next up was a talk entitled 'A farm buzzing with pond life' by Dr Carl Sayer of University College London. In a tour de force of science and humour, Carl took us to the forgotten ponds of Norfolk, where nearly every field used to have a marl pit pond. Of the 22,000 remaining (from an estimated 60,000), 95% are now just small circular overgrown copses, any water remaining being an oxygen-poor murk, unfit for life. As part of his research, Carl and his team opened up a few ponds and monitored the return of all manner of wildlife, from seeds remaining dormant in the sediment at the bottom of the pond, to dragonflies turning up within hours of the restoration of open water. In a similar project, several 'ghost' ponds (ponds that had been deliberately filled in, leaving only a ghostly image in aerial photographs) were re-excavated, revealing the original sediments still in situ. Carl promised to return to a future BDS Members' Day to report on the progress of these.

The final talk of the day was delivered by Dave Chelmick and entitled 'Emeralds'. Dave is an excellent raconteur, and we were entertained by various stories of trips to Spain to figure out the strange life cycle of Emerald damselfly species inhabiting ephemeral ponds and lakes in an endorheic region. This was a new word for me, but as I understand it, 'endorheic' refers to water bodies that are purely rain-fed and if it doesn't rain for long periods, the lakes disappear in a catastrophic evaporation event. Catastrophic for any creature attempting to complete their life cycle, that is. Dave was able to witness mass emergences of damselflies from water bodies that had been totally dry within the larval life cycle of the insects! We are all aware of eggs remaining unhatched until conditions are suitable, but aestivation of aquatic larvae in the absence of water? That's just plain weird. As Dave summarised, more research is needed to fully understand the processes at work here.

I must mention the tongue-in-cheek fire safety briefing at the beginning of the day. This was delivered by the Collections Manager, Darren Mann, who is responsible for the entomological collections at the museum. He quipped that in the extremely unlikely event of a fire, BDS members should form an orderly queue in the Entomological department, where they would be given trays of priceless specimens from the collections to carry outside to safety. Humans are expendable!

At least, I think he was joking.

Friday, 15 November 2013

Cold and calm

This week has seen the first frosty mornings of the winter for windscreens in north Buckinghamshire and the deployment of ice scrapers in gloved hands.

On Thursday, I stepped outside the front door to be greeted by the 'whoosh' of a low-flying flock of Starlings, weaving their way around the rooftops in a high speed commute to who-knows-where. Arriving at work, my attention was grabbed by a group of Fieldfares, 'chack'-ing as they flew from bare tree tops to fallow meadow.

This evening, a gibbous moon glowed in a corona of high cloud, casting an eerie light across a still, windless landscape. Fallen leaves sat motionless on the dry ground, their brittle beauty seemingly reluctant to make any sound lest they disturb the quietness.

A faint trace of wood smoke tainted the air, flavouring the dusk with the promise of warmth indoors. I took the hint and headed homewards, to be regaled by tales of more robust weather further north.

Saturday, 9 November 2013

Giving nature a home

News from the north, today, centred around Our Lass's house hunting exploits across East and West Mainland.

She had set off this morning with a list of properties to view, on a route taking in Evie, to the north, and St Mary's, to the south.

The text message I received detailing progress wasn't full of the usual estate agent speak. Far from it.

I was expecting the report to be a little different (as many things in Orkney are, it's part of the charm), but I wasn't prepared for...

"I seen 5 long-tailed duck and 100 purple sandpiper."

That's my girl!

Sunday, 3 November 2013

More attic antics

Another weekend, another trip to the loft.

But this, hopefully, should be the last one (unless there's some sudden, calamitous, central heating mishap). All our boxes of memories and bags of 'it'll come in handy one day' are safely stored in a spare bedroom. Now begins the trickiest task of all, sorting through the collection to see if we really want to transport it to 59 degrees north.

There were a few quick wins with footwear (which was probably a dubious fashion choice in its time, never mind in another era) and an old pan rack, but the bulk of the stuff just sat on the floor and tried not to catch my eye. Will we really need 15 metres of stair carpet - in a bungalow? How many 1000 piece jigsaws are necessary for those long Winter nights?

I found a box of First Born's school work from her 'A' Level years. I recalled she had already told me that it was surplus to requirements. But it's wall-to-wall science and almost painful to consign to the recycling pile. I consoled myself by keeping any text books and with freeing up 42 punched pockets to be useful again. Whilst filling a recycling sack with the loose leaves of A4, most decorated with FB's neat handwriting, a sudden jarring of my senses brought me to a halt. Double checking, I realised that I had seen an envelope bearing a few words in my scribbled hand:


On looking inside the envelope, sure enough, tucked into one corner was a small sliver of a metallic substance.


It didn't take much deduction to work out that, at some point in the past, I had obviously supplied this tiny shard for a school project. Element-ary, really.

What I don't recall is the reason for the requirement.

However, a little further down the pile of papers, I came across a pamphlet of experiments with the intriguing title of...


When did that sneak into the National Curriculum?

I was going to post a photo of the whole front page, but I wouldn't want to contravene any anti-terrorism legislation and reveal details of the recipes for various types of ordnance.

With that task out of the way, I retreated to the garden for some fresh air, whilst Our Lass continued to pack for her journey northwards (what with her being the sole member of the Tense Towers Vanguard Squadron, with me being strictly Rear Echelon).

As I mowed the lawn for possibly the last time, I noticed that there were still a few splashes of colour in the garden: beneath a Hawthorn tree, several Cyclamen flowers braved the Autumnal winds; amongst the borders, bright white buttons of Feverfew shone in the low sunshine and, scattered around much of the Tense estate, there were still many clumps of Corydalis, which seems to provide a fanfare for nearly all of the growing season with its glorious yellow trumpets. I will miss Corydalis. Unless, of course, a stray seed or two clings to my boots and eventually finds itself on a rocky Orcadian ledge.

Feverfew
Corydalis

Saturday, 26 October 2013

Garden schmarden

The garden at Tense Towers has not appeared in these pages very often of late. Various factors have combined to bring about this lamentable situation, so I thought I would offer an explanation and a brief update ('brief' as in I've just spent five minutes at the lounge window).

Not an up-to-date shot, I admit

As much as I would like to think that the focus of attention in the garden is our diminutive, wildlife pond, even I have to admit that dragonflies and newts aren't the be all and end all. Shocking, isn't it? The intricate food web in this small suburban space is dominated by its top predators, just like any other wild place. At Tense Towers, these are variously-sized bundles of feathers, with a penchant for invertebrates, seeds or other bundles of feathers. I am obviously ignoring the presence of the neighbourhood cats in this reasoning, as they are an unnatural invasion upon the scene.

For many years, we have been supplying an assortment of foodstuffs for the birds that visit our garden, or probably more accurately, the birds that visit our garden due to the amount of food available. This round-the-year load and the increasing number of visitors really began to take its toll last Winter, when it became apparent that something had to give. The lawn wasn't coping with the footfall from numerous Wood Pigeons. The lack of space meant that even moving the feeders around wasn't giving the grass any respite through the cold, harsh months. On top of that, the er... mmm... how can I put this... the... other end of the problem led to a build up of guano that wasn't healthy for anyone, birds or humans. Possibly the plants appreciated it!

So come Spring, once natural sources of food had appeared, we took the decision to curtail all feeding. We stopped putting out sunflower seeds, peanuts, fat blocks and over-ripe fruit, until gradually all feeders were empty. Our neighbours are reasonably bird-friendly (despite their cats!) and also put out food, so we weren't overly worried that 'our' birds would survive.

As it has turned out, what with our impending move, this was probably the best way to phase out the supplemented supply that attracted flocks of birds to Tense Towers. It would be highly inadvisable to carry out this task now, as we approach the lean months of another Winter, as the effects would be much less benign.

So, for these reasons, the garden has received less attention this year. We have noted that the quantity of bird species present has reduced dramatically, as has the quantity of each species. I guess this underlines how artificial the feeding regime actually was.

However, of late, a few signs of the changing seasons have been apparent. There's a little more birdsong to be heard at dawn and dusk (this is more likely to be a result of us being either awake or around at these times as the day length* reduces). This morning, over breakfast, we noticed that there was a fair bit of activity outside. Birds were taking advantage of a brief lull in the weather to feed, drink and bathe in relatively calm conditions.

For five minutes stood at the window, we were rewarded with a snapshot of the new order. No surprises, but still delightful to witness. Several Blackbirds were foraging on the lawn and in the borders, searching out 'tasty' morsels. Half a dozen Blue Tits pee-oing-ed from stem to stem across the garden, as they investigated the seed heads of Purple Loosestrife, flag irises, Pyracantha and ornamental grasses for tiny invertebrates. A Wren did much the same, but kept lower and in denser cover, before flying up into the Ivy which lines the top of a fence panel. There were a few Wood Pigeons and Collared Doves sat about, whose main reason for hanging around seems to be the bathing opportunities presented by the pond. Dunnocks hopped about in the damp edges of the lawn, never too far from the safety of a thick bush, and (predictably) a couple of Robins were fighting over whose garden it was anyway.

Overall, it's a quieter place though. No squabbling flocks of finches, no raucous Starling behaviour, no feisty Great Spotted Woodpeckers or cackling Magpies.

Coincidentally, those last two species will be in short supply in another place. And that thought makes me wonder what sort of wildlife garden awaits. A blank canvas of wall-to-wall lawn, a strict regime of straight-edged borders and clipped bushes or something more natural where the wildness flows seamlessly towards our back door?

*I know, I know, the day length is always the same-ish, I was referring to amount of actual daylight. Jeez, you people are pedantic. Er... lighten up?

Monday, 21 October 2013

Top bloke

Dunno if this is available all around the world? It ought to be...


For anyone unfamiliar with the concept of the programme, here's some history.

Unsure who Chris Packham is?

I would hesitantly suggest that this is 45 minutes of audio gold.
OK, I'm biased. The guy's the same age as me and the Beeb broadcast this on my birthday.

In the interests of balanced reporting, I can't stand poodles.